Frequently Asked Questions
We've compiled a list of frequently asked questions about our products to help you.
REEF Inflatable Water Mats
You betcha! REEF comes with a three-year warranty against any manufacturer defects.
Yes! REEF Mats are Fido-approved! Just be sure your four-legged friend’s nails are trimmed and they’ll have an absolute blast.
REEF Mats are designed to flat-fold so they fit neatly back into their included storage bags. Because REEF Mats come in different shapes and sizes, the folding method can vary slightly depending on the model you have.
For step-by-step guidance, you can watch our folding videos on our blog — along with a few helpful tips and tricks.
For step-by-step guidance, you can watch our folding videos on our blog — along with a few helpful tips and tricks.
REEF Mats are not designed to be towed. Towing REEF by the D-ring or carry handles can damage your mat beyond repair. However, we do sell REEF Tie-Down Straps that may be used to strap the inflated REEF to your boat out of the water.
Visit the help center for step-by-step instructions on how to properly repair your REEF Mat. Don't worry – you got this!
The bubble effect on your REEF Mat is completely normal! Because the inflation valve is on the opposite side of the mat, there is no drop-stitch material connecting the top and bottom surfaces in that area. This design is intentional and ensures the best possible inflation experience. Rest assured, your mat is functioning as designed for maximum durability and performance on the water!
Periodically clean your REEF Mat with mild soap and water. For best results you can use MISSION’s Vinyl Cleaner – it’s a fantastic product for cleaning your REEF Mat or vinyl boat seats. We designed it specifically with REEF in mind!
REEF Mats are designed for temporary use on the water and should not be permanently anchored. Prolonged exposure to water and environmental elements can degrade the materials over time. To ensure the longevity and performance of your REEF Mat, it's recommended to deflate, clean, and store it in a dry place after each use.
This is normal. They’ll disappear after exposure to heat – like the sun!
To properly store your REEF Mat, start by rinsing it with fresh water and allowing it to dry completely. Once dry, fully deflate the mat, ensuring all the air is removed to avoid unnecessary stress on the material. Then, fold the mat up and store it in it's storage bag to keep the mat protected from dirt and potential damage. Finally, store it in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight, extreme heat, or freezing temperatures to preserve its material integrity.
Yes, you can adjust the firmness of your REEF Mat by varying its inflation pressure. Inflation pressure amounts can be found on each REEF Mat's product page or in the instruction manual provided with each mat. It's important to avoid overinflation, as it can cause excessive stress on the mat's materials and potentially lead to damage. Similarly, underinflation may result in a less stable surface, affecting the mat's performance.
With proper care and maintenance, REEF Mats are built to last season after season after season. Made from high-quality, durable materials, they can withstand years of fun on the water when properly inflated, cleaned, and stored. By keeping them out of harsh elements when not in use and following recommended care instructions, you can enjoy endless summers of relaxation and adventure.
The Reef Tether Line is designed to be adjustable in length, allowing users to modify it according to their specific needs.
The Reef Tether Line functions as a shock-absorbing rope, designed to provide flexibility and minimize impact on D-rings, handles, cleats and lift rings.
The maximum length of the Reef Tether Line when fully extended is 12'.
REEF Tie-Down Straps are adjustable between 13.5" and 48" in length. These straps are designed to secure inflatables on your boat's sun deck. They feature integrated loops and clips for quick adjustments, ensuring a snug and secure fit for various sizes of inflatables.
Yes, the REEF Tie-Down Straps are engineered to securely hold inflatables on your boat's sun deck. The clips are robust enough to endure rough water conditions and sudden jerks. However, it’s best to slow down during rough conditions for added safety.
The REEF Tie-Down Straps are designed for quick and easy attachment and detachment, featuring integrated loops and clips that facilitate swift adjustments. This user-friendly design allows for hassle-free securing and releasing of inflatables on your boat's sun deck.
The Hi-Vis REEF Inflatable Anchor Line is designed to resist tangling. Its PVC strap material doesn't absorb water, preventing knots and tangles. Additionally, it comes with a mesh storage sack that allows the line to dry before storage, further reducing the chance of tangling.
The Stirrup Step measures 24" long and is designed to provide a sturdy, reliable boost when climbing onto a REEF Mat from the water. Its fixed design ensures consistent support every time you use it. By securely attaching to the REEF Mat handles, it minimizes movement, allowing users to step up with confidence.
When attached to a REEF Mat, the Stirrup Step can support a person weighing up to 300 lbs as they go up and down from the mat in the water.
Yes! The Stirrup Step features a padded grip for your foot, providing extra traction underwater. This ensures a secure and stable step when climbing onto a REEF Mat, helping to prevent slipping while in the water.
If you have an iSUP and want an electric pump option – the answer is simple – you'll want to get MISSION's High Pressure 12v Electric Pump. It was designed specifically for inflating iSUPs to high-pressures.
For REEF Mats, the answer starts with a question about your power source:
1. If you have a power outlet (standard 3-prong plug), our 120v AC High-Volume (Medium Pressure) Electric Pump is awesome – and fast! This pump will fully inflate your REEF Mat to the optimal pressure in no time (3.6 PSI). It’s a great option if you have land power and want the quickest, one-and-done, solution.
(Note – typically on boat converters won't work. The 12v system in boats do not provide a sufficient amount of power for most high-pressure pumps. So, purchasing a 12v to 120v converter is not an option. The only solution for a robust on-board 120V AC system would be to install an inverter of sufficient wattage to provide the level of power needed by a 120v pump).
2. If you’re going to be out on the boat without a 120v outlet, use our 12v DC Low-Pressure Air Pump. This pump conveniently plugs into the 12v accessory power adapter (cigarette lighter) and works quickly to blow most of the air in or out of your mat. This pump will take you 95% of the way there, filling your mat to about 1 PSI. Now, use the included hand pump to increase the mat to your desired pressure/firmness. (We recommend 2 ½ PSI for medium firmness. If you want a dock-like experience, you can increase the pressure up to around 5 PSI. Secret of the pros...3.5 PSI is perfect).
Sure, it’s a two-step process, but most of our customers like this option best because this little compact pump is super-fast and does the bulk of the work for you.
3. Our 12v DC High-Pressure Electric Pump can fill REEF Mats too, but the trade-off is speed. Fill times for REEF mats will be over 10 minutes – as this pump was originally designed for inflating iSUPs to high-pressures. It uses the same connection port and is a great option if you only have a 12v DC power source, don't care about the added fill time, and don't want to be responsible for any manual pumping whatsoever!
Just be sure not to over fill your mat! Remember, the ideal PSI for REEF mats is between 2-5 PSI. This pump can go all the way up to 18 PSI.
1. If you have a power outlet (standard 3-prong plug), our 120v AC High-Volume (Medium Pressure) Electric Pump is awesome – and fast! This pump will fully inflate your REEF Mat to the optimal pressure in no time (3.6 PSI). It’s a great option if you have land power and want the quickest, one-and-done, solution.
(Note – typically on boat converters won't work. The 12v system in boats do not provide a sufficient amount of power for most high-pressure pumps. So, purchasing a 12v to 120v converter is not an option. The only solution for a robust on-board 120V AC system would be to install an inverter of sufficient wattage to provide the level of power needed by a 120v pump).
2. If you’re going to be out on the boat without a 120v outlet, use our 12v DC Low-Pressure Air Pump. This pump conveniently plugs into the 12v accessory power adapter (cigarette lighter) and works quickly to blow most of the air in or out of your mat. This pump will take you 95% of the way there, filling your mat to about 1 PSI. Now, use the included hand pump to increase the mat to your desired pressure/firmness. (We recommend 2 ½ PSI for medium firmness. If you want a dock-like experience, you can increase the pressure up to around 5 PSI. Secret of the pros...3.5 PSI is perfect).
Sure, it’s a two-step process, but most of our customers like this option best because this little compact pump is super-fast and does the bulk of the work for you.
3. Our 12v DC High-Pressure Electric Pump can fill REEF Mats too, but the trade-off is speed. Fill times for REEF mats will be over 10 minutes – as this pump was originally designed for inflating iSUPs to high-pressures. It uses the same connection port and is a great option if you only have a 12v DC power source, don't care about the added fill time, and don't want to be responsible for any manual pumping whatsoever!
Just be sure not to over fill your mat! Remember, the ideal PSI for REEF mats is between 2-5 PSI. This pump can go all the way up to 18 PSI.
Halkey-Roberts One-Way Check Valve.
Our iSUPs and REEF water mats are designed with the Halkey-Roberts valve (also called HR valve). This is a one-way check valve that makes the inflation and deflation of your inflatable as quick as possible because it does not let the air out while you are pumping. Halkey-Roberts valves have a pushpin (spring) inside the middle part of the valve.
This pushpin on a HR valve has two positions:
Up Position – Inflation
You inflate MISSION iSUPs when the pushpin is in the up position.
In the up position, air will not escape the valve, but the valve will let you pump air into it. Simply hook a pump into the valve and inflate your iSUP. Once you are finished inflating, simply disconnect the pump, and the air will not escape with the pushpin in the up position.
Down Position – Deflation
You deflate MISSION iSUPs when the pushpin is in the down position.
In the down position, the valve will open entirely and let the air escape rapidly. This position should only be used for deflating your iSUPs, even though you can still pump air into it in this position. (TIP: Even though air escapes quickly in the down position, having a pump with a deflation feature will suck out all of the air in no time.)
Our iSUPs and REEF water mats are designed with the Halkey-Roberts valve (also called HR valve). This is a one-way check valve that makes the inflation and deflation of your inflatable as quick as possible because it does not let the air out while you are pumping. Halkey-Roberts valves have a pushpin (spring) inside the middle part of the valve.
This pushpin on a HR valve has two positions:
Up Position – Inflation
You inflate MISSION iSUPs when the pushpin is in the up position.
In the up position, air will not escape the valve, but the valve will let you pump air into it. Simply hook a pump into the valve and inflate your iSUP. Once you are finished inflating, simply disconnect the pump, and the air will not escape with the pushpin in the up position.
Down Position – Deflation
You deflate MISSION iSUPs when the pushpin is in the down position.
In the down position, the valve will open entirely and let the air escape rapidly. This position should only be used for deflating your iSUPs, even though you can still pump air into it in this position. (TIP: Even though air escapes quickly in the down position, having a pump with a deflation feature will suck out all of the air in no time.)
Yes. Many of our pumps already include adapter kits with the most common inflatable connection types so you have those too. But we also sell them separately.
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Foam Fenders
Every CANNON fender comes with an integrated DREADKNOT Fender Line attached at the top. Built into that line is the Slide Lock — a tension-based system that lets you adjust fender height with a simple slide up or down. It's always locked in place while remaining easy to reposition, so you never need to tie a clove hitch or any knot to secure your fender. At the end of the line is a soft shackle — loop it around any cleat or attachment point, close the button knot, and it's secure. No hardware to break. Just smart, simple tension and loop technology that's been reliable for generations. Already have fenders you love? MISSION also sells DREADKNOT Fender Lines separately — a simple way to bring the same knot-free adjustment to any fender in your kit.
Traditional pendant fenders are made from inflatable PVC — they mark gelcoat, rely on needle valves that eventually fail, and require knots for every height adjustment. CANNON is built from MISSION's premium closed-cell foam, so it never deflates, never marks your hull, and adjusts height in seconds with DREADKNOT. Same classic round pendant shape. Fundamentally better construction.
Yes — particularly for pontoons where MAVEN isn't compatible, CANNON is an excellent solution. Because Pontoons have high railings and clear attachment points, it gives CANNON the clearance it needs to hang and roll naturally at the dock. If your pontoon has standard tube perimeter railing and a lip below the rub rail, MAVEN was purpose-built for that application. Watch: MAVEN vs. CANNON video. But if you prefer to roll your fenders or want a more classic hanging pendant CANNON is a great choice that provides comparable protections for Pontoons.
Yes. Remove the soft shackle from the end of the DREADKNOT Fender Line and attach the Phender Pro hardware directly to the remaining loop. DREADKNOT handles height adjustment from there — no additional hardware or modification required.
CANNON is built from MISSION's patented XL EXTRALIGHT® closed-cell foam — lightweight, non-marking, UV-resistant, and buoyant. It won't absorb water, deflate, or degrade the way traditional vinyl pendant fenders do. No valves, no pump, no failures. Just solid, reliable foam that holds its shape and does its job season after season.
No. CANNON's closed-cell foam is non-marking and softer than traditional PVC — it's made to protect, not damage. The only real risk with any fender is trapped particulates: sand, grit, debris that gets between the fender and hull. Keep your fenders clean and that risk disappears entirely. A quick rinse or wipe-down if they get dirty is all it takes — a dirty, grimy fender is the only fender you should worry about.
Yes. Closed-cell foam doesn't absorb water, so saltwater exposure isn't a concern. Coastal boaters already know the drill — rinse everything down after every outing. Your fenders should join that routine. That's all they need.
Yes. Closed-cell foam is naturally buoyant — CANNON will float if it ever went overboard – but let keep the fenders there on the boat, Captain.
CANNON is sold in 2-packs and 4-packs. Two covers most standard docking situations — one forward, one aft on the same side. Four gives you the option to cover both sides at once, or extra coverage for trickier docking situations. If you tie up regularly or want some flexibility, the set of 4 will have you fully covered.
Right now CANNON comes in one size — an 8" round, 24” tall pendant profile engineered to work across a wide range of boats with 30 inches or more of vertical freeboard. It’s available in four great colors and sold as 2-packs and 4-packs depending on how much coverage you need.
CANNON is built from closed-cell foam — a material that doesn't degrade the way traditional PVC pendant fenders do. It won't deflate, crack, or yellow over time. With basic care — rinsing after saltwater use and keeping them out of prolonged direct sunlight — these are the kind of fenders you buy once and stop thinking about.
MAVEN requires two things: a standard perimeter railing in 1¼" or 1½" sizing — MAVEN ships with both hooks to fit either — and a lip or gap just below the rub rail where the lower hook can tuck up into. The large majority of pontoons on the water today have both. Where MAVEN doesn't work is on some unconventional or unique designs with curved fascia fittings or fiberglass walls in place of standard tube railing — if that's your pontoon boat, CANNON is worth a look.
Yes — and honestly that's the whole point. MAVEN was designed to come off so fast that there's no reason to leave it on while you're running. The two-point attachment — lower hook on the rub rail, upper hook over the perimeter railing — creates tension that holds MAVEN exactly in position at the dock and prevents it from pinching up out of the way the way pendant fenders can. That same system makes removal effortless: hook off the top railing, unhook from the rub rail, done. Store fenders under the seats or in a stowage bay while underway.
MAVEN is sold in pairs. Most pontoon owners start with two — some opt for four, either for the option to cover both sides at once, or to add a third/fourth fender at a busier dock where extra protection makes sense.
No — MAVEN is not compatible with Phender Pro. MAVEN's dedicated two-point attachment system — lower hook on the rub rail, upper hook over the perimeter railing — is what makes it work. If you want to use Phender Pro with your fenders, CANNON is the pontoon appropriate MISSION fender built for a proprietary attachment system such as Phender Pro.
MAVEN is built from MISSION's patented XL EXTRALIGHT® closed-cell foam — the same material across our full foam fender lineup. Lightweight, non-marking, UV-resistant, and buoyant. It won't absorb water, deflate, or degrade the way vinyl fenders do. Built to protect your pontoon season after season.
No. MAVEN's closed-cell foam is non-marking and softer than traditional PVC — it's made to protect, not damage. The only real risk with any fender is trapped particulates: sand, grit, debris that gets between the fender and hull. Keep your fenders clean and that risk disappears entirely. A quick rinse or wipe-down after use is all it takes — a dirty, grimy fender is the only fender you should worry about.
No. MAVEN was purpose-built for pontoon geometry — specifically the combination of a tube perimeter railing and a lip below the rub rail that its two-point attachment depends on. Deck boats and houseboats typically don't share that configuration, so MAVEN won't attach correctly on those hull types. Our fender comparison page will help you better determine what fender solution will work best for your set up.
Each MAVEN fender weighs approximately 2 lbs 6 oz — light enough to deploy and remove with one hand, which is the whole point of a fender designed for fast on and off at the dock.
Minimal. You’ll want to keep your fenders clean – but MAVEN's closed-cell foam is UV-resistant and doesn't absorb water, so there's no special upkeep required. A rinse with fresh water after saltwater use and a wipe-down if they pick up any grit or grime is all they need. Store them under the seats or in a stowage bay while underway and they'll be ready every time you dock.
MAVEN fenders fit nicely into most under-seat storage compartments and stowage bays — a good size that stows away cleanly without taking over your storage space. When you're headed out, pull them off and drop them in. They'll be right there when you need them at the dock.
LockCAM is SENTRY's integrated attachment and height adjustment system. Unlike a traditional fender line, SENTRY uses a flat strap — it won't sour or degrade over time and slides smoothly through the LockCAM. The cam is always in the locked position, so there's no separate locking step. Press the lever down, slide the strap to where you need it, release — the cam re-engages and SENTRY holds position without a knot. To cinch the fender tight against the hull, pull both straps the way you would tighten a backpack and let go.
That opening is designed to give you access to your cleat while SENTRY is deployed. Pass a dock line directly through the hole and you can still reach and use the cleat without removing or repositioning the fender. It's a small detail that makes a real difference when you're managing lines at a busy dock.
Yes — and it's one of SENTRY's most useful features. The curved backside hugs a piling naturally. Cinch the straps around it and SENTRY holds position, making it ideal for quick stops at restaurant docks or anywhere you're tying up to whatever's available.
SENTRY can also attach to railings or any fixed point you can't drop a loop over. Let out all of SENTRY's strap to create one large loop, feed that loop around the railing or through whatever opening you're working with, then drop the fender body through the loop itself. Now that the strap is attached you can adjust and tighten from there like normal. Once you do it once it's completely intuitive.
SENTRY can also attach to railings or any fixed point you can't drop a loop over. Let out all of SENTRY's strap to create one large loop, feed that loop around the railing or through whatever opening you're working with, then drop the fender body through the loop itself. Now that the strap is attached you can adjust and tighten from there like normal. Once you do it once it's completely intuitive.
SENTRY is built from MISSION's patented XL EXTRALIGHT® closed-cell foam — the same material across our full foam fender lineup. It's lightweight, non-marking, UV-resistant, and doesn't absorb water. Unlike traditional vinyl fenders, there's nothing to deflate, no valves to fail, and no residue left on your hull.
SENTRY's closed-cell foam is non-marking and softer than traditional PVC fenders, making it a better choice for gelcoat protection right out of the gate. That said, any fender — ours included — can introduce risk if particulates like sand or grit get trapped between the fender and the hull. It's not the foam doing the damage, it's the debris. The simple fix: keep your fenders clean. A quick rinse or light wipe-down after use removes the grit that causes problems. Clean fender, protected hull.
Yes. Closed-cell foam doesn't absorb water, so saltwater exposure isn't a concern. Coastal boaters already know the drill — rinse everything down after every outing. Your fenders should join that routine. That's all they need.
Yes. Closed-cell foam is naturally buoyant — SENTRY would certainly float if it ever went overboard.
SENTRY is built from closed-cell foam — a material that doesn't degrade the way traditional PVC fenders do. It won't deflate, crack, or yellow over time. With basic care — rinsing after saltwater use and keeping them out of prolonged direct sunlight — these are the kind of fenders you buy once and stop thinking about.
SENTRY is sold in pairs — two is the typical setup for most boats. Some boaters keep four on board so they can have coverage on both sides if needed, or an extra for tricky dock situations. If your boat is approaching 24 ft or larger, consider DYMON for the added coverage a bigger hull needs.
SENTRY comes in one size — engineered to fit the surf and sport boat hulls it was built for, typically boats up to about 26 ft. If you like SENTRY but your boat is larger, check out our DYMON inflatable fender.
The pyramid shape serves two purposes: it prevents ICON from rolling regardless of orientation — horizontal, vertical, or draped over a hull — and it creates a naturally stackable profile that stores cleanly when you have multiples on board. The holes throughout the body are attachment points. Eight in total, positioned on the sides and through the face of the fender so you can run a line through virtually any configuration — top mount, midpoint drape, horizontal, daisy chain, line along dock, dock pole corners — it’s essentially your lego and you’re not locked into one setup.
Yes — and it's one of ICON's strongest use cases. Mount it at a dock corner, along a piling, or horizontally along a dock face for continuous coverage. It works on the boat side and the dock side equally well, which is what makes it the right answer for irregular setups where a standard fender shape just doesn't fit.
More than any other fender MISSION makes. And customers who love the product continue to find more. Hang it vertically from the top like a traditional fender, attach from a midpoint so it drapes over the hull covering above and below the rub rail, run a line through horizontally along a dock face, wrap it around a piling, or string multiples together. The eight attachment points across the body mean the configuration changes to fit the situation.
It depends entirely on what you're solving for. One handles a specific problem spot — a dock corner, a low rub rail zone, a piling. Two or three strung together cover a longer section of dock face. Most boaters who discover ICON end up keeping several because once you understand how they configure, you find new uses for them. Start with two and go from there.
Yes — and this is where ICON really earns its place. Run a line through the attachment points of multiple ICONs and string them together horizontally for continuous dock coverage, or mix orientations — some vertical, some horizontal — to cover corners and irregular contact zones. The more you have the more flexible the system becomes. Think of them as building blocks: each one solves something on its own, and together they solve almost anything.
Both are heavy-duty inflatables built for larger boats — but they solve different problems. BRIGADE Pendant is a traditional pendant-style fender built ideally for larger cruisers and yachts hanging from a cleat or rail and providing large-scale offset protection. DYMON is built for the gap between a standard runabout fender and full cruiser-scale protection — boats in the 25–35 ft range that have outgrown standard fenders but don't need the scale of BRIGADE. DYMON also attaches differently: mid-fender on the side rather than from the top, which lets it hug the hull the way SENTRY does rather than hanging straight down like a pendant.
DYMON has side-mounted attachment points positioned mid-fender rather than at the top. DREADKNOT Fender Line technology is built directly into the fender — slide the lock to your desired position and the fender holds. The mid-fender attachment is what keeps DYMON hugging the hull rather than swinging away from it, giving you protection above and below the rub rail right where it matters most. DYMON's broad profile adds to that stability — it won't roll or pinch out of the way the way a round fender can, so protection stays exactly where you place it.
Yes — and it's built right in. DYMON has DREADKNOT Fender Line technology integrated directly into the fender itself, not a separate line you purchase and attach. Slide the lock to set your position and you're done.
It comes down to the geometry of modern larger boats. There's a category of watercraft today that looks like a scaled-up sport boat — bigger hull, more freeboard, but the same need for precise protection right at the rub rail, above and below. A traditional top-mounted pendant fender freely hanging doesn't deliver that kind of targeted coverage on these hulls. DYMON's side-mounted mid-fender attachment was designed specifically for this: it keeps the fender positioned right where the hull needs it most rather than hanging freely and missing the mark. For boats in that gap between a standard runabout fender and full cruiser-scale protection, DYMON's shape and attachment are exactly right.
Inflatable Fenders
Same heavy-duty construction — layered PVC-coated nylon, triple-reinforced eyelets, high-pressure valve system — different shape for different jobs. BRIGADE Pendant is a traditional pendant-style fender that hangs and provides round coverage. BRIGADE Pad is wide and flat, built for situations where surface area matters more than offset — a swim platform, a tight gap between windows, a broad hull section where a round fender creates a single point of contact instead of spreading the load. If you need both, they work together as a complete protection system.
Anywhere a round fender doesn't give you the right sort of coverage. Swim platforms, gaps between windows, transom tie-ups, dock corners, and wide flat hull sections are all situations where BRIGADE Pad does what a pendant fender can't — spread protection across a broad, flat face instead of concentrating it at one point. It's also a natural complement to BRIGADE Pendant on larger boats where different zones of the hull call for different types of coverage.
Yes — and that's exactly how most larger boat owners use it. BRIGADE Pendant handles the standard docking coverage along the hull side. BRIGADE Pad fills in the specific spots where a round fender doesn't fit or doesn't cover enough surface area. Together they give you complete, custom protection across every zone of the boat.
Yes — attachment points at each end give you the flexibility to hang BRIGADE Pad in whichever orientation fits the spot. Vertical for taller coverage along the hull, horizontal for wide flat surfaces or dock face coverage. The flat profile stays put and won't roll regardless of orientation.
Standard inflatable fenders are built to a price point — thin PVC, needle valves that wear out, and attachment points that are often the first thing to fail under load. BRIGADE Pendant is built to our MISSION standard. Layered PVC-coated nylon construction holds shape and air under heavy load and through multiple seasons. The high-pressure valve system is fast to inflate and more reliable. Triple-reinforced eyelets are engineered specifically for the strain larger boats put on attachment points. But what sets BRIGADE apart beyond construction is the combination of large serious protection with the option to deflate — on boats where onboard storage is everything, that flexibility matters. And with sizing options to dial in the right offset for your specific boat, BRIGADE gives you custom protection rather than a one-size compromise.
Yes — BRIGADE Pendant pairs beautifully with MISSION's DREADKNOT Fender Lines, sold separately. Attach the DREADKNOT Fender Line to the eyelet and the integrated Slide-Lock capsule handles height adjustment with a simple slide — no retying every time you dock somewhere new. BRIGADE Pendant's construction and DREADKNOT's knot-free adjustability are a natural pairing: a better-built inflatable fender with best-in-class height adjustment to match.
Yes — attachment points at each end give you the flexibility to hang BRIGADE Pendant vertically like a traditional pendant fender or horizontally for flat coverage against a dock face or hull section. The orientation that works best depends on your specific docking situation and where you need protection most.
BRIGADE Pendant is built to hold air season after season, inflation after deflation. The high-pressure valve system replaces the fragile needle valves that standard inflatable fenders rely on — the kind that wear out, leak slowly, and leave you with a flat fender when you need it most. You can absolutely leave BRIGADE Pendant inflated and ready for deployment all season. That said, one of the real advantages of an inflatable is the option to deflate and reclaim onboard storage space when it suits you — it deflates fast and stows flat in minutes.
Both are heavy-duty inflatables built for larger boats — but they solve different problems. BRIGADE Pendant is a traditional pendant-style fender built ideally for larger cruisers and yachts hanging from a cleat or rail and providing large-scale offset protection. DYMON is built for the gap between a standard runabout fender and full cruiser-scale protection — boats in the 25–35 ft range that have outgrown standard fenders but don't need the scale of BRIGADE. DYMON also attaches differently: mid-fender on the side rather than from the top, which lets it hug the hull the way SENTRY does rather than hanging straight down like a pendant.
DYMON has side-mounted attachment points positioned mid-fender rather than at the top. DREADKNOT Fender Line technology is built directly into the fender — slide the lock to your desired position and the fender holds. The mid-fender attachment is what keeps DYMON hugging the hull rather than swinging away from it, giving you protection above and below the rub rail right where it matters most. DYMON's broad profile adds to that stability — it won't roll or pinch out of the way the way a round fender can, so protection stays exactly where you place it.
Yes — and it's built right in. DYMON has DREADKNOT Fender Line technology integrated directly into the fender itself, not a separate line you purchase and attach. Slide the lock to set your position and you're done.
It comes down to the geometry of modern larger boats. There's a category of watercraft today that looks like a scaled-up sport boat — bigger hull, more freeboard, but the same need for precise protection right at the rub rail, above and below. A traditional top-mounted pendant fender freely hanging doesn't deliver that kind of targeted coverage on these hulls. DYMON's side-mounted mid-fender attachment was designed specifically for this: it keeps the fender positioned right where the hull needs it most rather than hanging freely and missing the mark. For boats in that gap between a standard runabout fender and full cruiser-scale protection, DYMON's shape and attachment are exactly right.
Start by thinking about what you're actually protecting. The transom section of your boat is where coverage matters most — and you don't need to line your entire dock edge to get great protection. For a 22 ft boat, a 10 ft or 18 ft TITAN DOCK covers the critical zone well. Three 3 ft sections spaced strategically can give you 10–13 ft of coverage with flexibility in placement. Longer sections make sense for high-traffic docks where guests are coming and going and you don't want to designate an exact landing spot — more coverage means less precision required. There's no single right answer: first consider what space you have, then what you're protecting, then how much coverage gives you peace of mind. Sections can always be combined and added to over time.
Yes — TITAN DOCK includes plenty of nylon straps for installation. The mounting loops run the full length of the back, spaced 24" apart top and bottom, and the included straps feed through whichever loops align with your dock's boards, pilings, or poles. You won't use every loop — just the ones that match your specific setup. Prefer to use traditional dock line instead? That works just as well — feed it through the loops the same way you would the included straps.
Technically yes — and we've seen it done on larger houseboats with great results. There's no reason TITAN DOCK can't provide boat-side coverage. That said, TITAN DOCK's multi-layer construction makes it thicker and heavier than TITAN, which means it doesn't fold down and store as easily. If you want boat-side bumper coverage you can deploy and stow on the move, TITAN is the better tool for that job. TITAN DOCK is built to stay put.
TITAN DOCK was designed with exactly that in mind — because no two docks seem to ever be set up the exact same way. The mounting loops spaced 24" apart top and bottom give you multiple attachment points to work with, and the included nylon straps are flexible enough to wrap around pilings, feed through dock boards or slats, or tie off to poles. D-rings on top add further flexibility for seawall mounting. Early in the process, identify which loops you actually want to use and pre-feed the straps through them before getting in the water — a little planning on the dock above goes a long way. Pro tip: use a friend or the D-rings and a line to hoist TITAN DOCK up where you plan to install it, taking the weight off while you secure and level it. Makes the whole installation significantly easier.
Both TITAN options are 10 feet long, so the difference is purely diameter. The 18" diameter is the right call for most boats and setups — it provides substantial coverage and offset for boats up to about 27 ft. The 24" diameter is built for larger boats, deeper V hulls that need more distance between hulls, or anyone who simply wants maximum offset and peace of mind at the raft-up.
TITAN has a D-ring at each end. Once inflated, position it along the hull side with one end at the transom and run it forward from there — this puts coverage where contact is most likely during a tie-up. Tie the D-rings off to the boat at either end. No complicated rigging — just two attachment points and you're done. No need to suspend TITAN off the water — it works best resting lightly on the surface, letting it float naturally in position between the boats.
Fast. A small electric tube pump — the kind most boaters already have on board — inflates the 18" TITAN in roughly 1 minute 45 seconds. The 24" takes a little longer but not much. Don't have a pump? MISSION sells compatible electric pumps. Deflation is just as fast, so packing TITAN back into its mesh bag at the end of the day adds nothing to your day. And honestly — any time spent setting up TITAN is time you'd otherwise spend scrambling with individual fenders as boats come and go. Two minutes of setup buys you the rest of the afternoon.
No — TITAN is designed for boat-to-boat protection during tie-ups and raft-ups, not permanent dock installation. For season-long dock protection, TITAN Dock is purpose-built for that application: heavier duty construction, flexible mounting options, and designed to live at the dock.
TITAN does not include a pump — many boaters already have a compatible one on board. TITAN uses a standard Halkey-Roberts valve, common across most marine inflatables, so there's a good chance the pump you already own works with it. If you need one, MISSION sells compatible electric pumps separately.
TITAN is designed to be durable and resistant to air loss, allowing them to be left inflated for extended periods without significant air loss. However, it’s important to note that, like any inflatable product, they may gradually lose air over time due to temperature changes.
To ensure optimal performance and longevity, it's advisable to periodically check the air pressure and reinflate the fender as needed. If the fender is going to be left inflated for a long duration, it’s also wise to store it in a shaded or protected area to minimize the effects of UV exposure and temperature fluctuations, which can impact the material and overall integrity of the fender.
To ensure optimal performance and longevity, it's advisable to periodically check the air pressure and reinflate the fender as needed. If the fender is going to be left inflated for a long duration, it’s also wise to store it in a shaded or protected area to minimize the effects of UV exposure and temperature fluctuations, which can impact the material and overall integrity of the fender.
Dock and Fender Lines
The Slide-Lock is built on a tension-based principle trusted by climbers and rescue teams for nearly a century. When you pull the line tight, it automatically grips under load—holding exactly where you leave it. There are no buttons, cams, or mechanical parts to fail—just smart design and friction doing the work.
Yes. DREADKNOT was designed to handle the unpredictable forces of docking—wind gusts, wakes, and current included. The Slide-Lock’s grip actually increases as load increases, meaning it holds tighter the harder it’s pulled. It’s been tested well beyond typical docking scenarios to ensure it won’t slip when it matters.
That said, it’s important to dock your boat correctly—not just rely on an overly tight line. If the line is pulled too tight (“ratcheted down”), your boat loses its natural ability to move with shifting water levels, wind, or waves. That lack of movement can stress your cleats, hardware, or even your hull.
Just like a boat tied too tightly with a traditional line, a DREADKNOT that’s held under constant heavy load will also continue to grip harder. In those cases, releasing it will require the proper technique. Under normal docking conditions, though, the Slide-Lock capsule slides easily with a simple twist—making it quick and intuitive for anyone to tie up with speed and confidence.
That said, it’s important to dock your boat correctly—not just rely on an overly tight line. If the line is pulled too tight (“ratcheted down”), your boat loses its natural ability to move with shifting water levels, wind, or waves. That lack of movement can stress your cleats, hardware, or even your hull.
Just like a boat tied too tightly with a traditional line, a DREADKNOT that’s held under constant heavy load will also continue to grip harder. In those cases, releasing it will require the proper technique. Under normal docking conditions, though, the Slide-Lock capsule slides easily with a simple twist—making it quick and intuitive for anyone to tie up with speed and confidence.
To release: hold the line in one hand, twist the Slide-Lock capsule with the other to unload the tension on the internal line-body, then slide it freely along the rope to your desired position. If the line has been under a heavy load, you can “knead” the capsule with your fingers to help break the tension before sliding.
Choosing size depends on boat size and usage conditions. For most boats up to about 25 ft, the 3/8” × 15 ft size will cover the majority of docking needs comfortably. If your boat is closer to 25-35 ft or you expect heavier wave or load conditions (e.g., open water, strong current) you might step up to the 1/2” × 25 ft version—this gives extra strength, longer reach, and easier twist under heavier load. It’s always okay to go bigger if you’re unsure.
Absolutely. DREADKNOT is well suited for rafting up because the Slide-Lock lets you fine-tune tension between boats without having to re-tie or ask your partner to adjust. One thing to note: when using both looped ends, there is a minimum loop-to-loop distance—if you need a very short span you can still use DREADKNOT simply as a regular line: slide the capsule out of the way and tie in traditional fashion. That flexibility is one of its strengths.
Yes. Each end of the DREADKNOT features a built-in 12” loop that fits standard cleats, posts, or handrails. If the loop is too small to drop directly over a post, simply wrap the line around the post and drop the loop through—it works just like a traditional line. Then adjust your distance with the Slide-Lock from there.
DREADKNOT is built with our premium Black NyCore™ construction — a nylon core for strength and stretch control, wrapped in a double-braided polyester outer for superior abrasion and UV resistance. It’s the way high-end dock lines should be made.
Traditional lines often rely on older materials that can lose strength after repeated knotting or wet/dry cycles. DREADKNOT keeps its integrity over time — delivering the same trusted strength, plus the added benefit of an integrated Slide-Lock and dual looped ends for fast, knot-free docking.
Traditional lines often rely on older materials that can lose strength after repeated knotting or wet/dry cycles. DREADKNOT keeps its integrity over time — delivering the same trusted strength, plus the added benefit of an integrated Slide-Lock and dual looped ends for fast, knot-free docking.
Yes. The Slide-Lock’s tension-based design is rooted in systems used in climbing and rescue—high-load, safety-critical domains. With DREADKNOT you get that same principle applied to boating: you’re getting the strength and reliability of a proper tie-up every time, without needing to tie a knot. Of course, you still want to select the appropriate line size for your vessel and conditions—but with the right size, you’re never compromising.
Ideally, you will have at least two (2) bow/stern lines and two (2) spring lines on board. Reference the diagram below to learn the difference.
The cleats on your boat are designed to work with appropriately sized lines. Lines that are too big for your cleats can cause problems and make tying up difficult.
You choose length/size based on your boat size and the application. You want a length that will give you maximum flexibility without creating unnecessary or cumbersome extra line.
Bow / Stern Lines
These lines firmly secure and hold the boat in place at the dock. They attach at both the bow and stern of the boat the adjacent dock cleats.
Spring Lines
These lines keep the boat parallel with the dock. They attach diagonally from a cleat at the boat’s center to dock cleats located near both ends (bow/stern) of the boat.
These lines firmly secure and hold the boat in place at the dock. They attach at both the bow and stern of the boat the adjacent dock cleats.
Spring Lines
These lines keep the boat parallel with the dock. They attach diagonally from a cleat at the boat’s center to dock cleats located near both ends (bow/stern) of the boat.
Surf Accessories
The rope comes set up at 16 ft out of the box, which is a good starting point for most riders and most waves. From there you can add the 48" or 24" sections — or both — to dial in your distance up to 22 ft total.
Yes. The rope is made from 16-strand braided hollow core polypropylene which floats naturally, and it has two integrated foam floats for added visibility and prop clearance. Drop it and it stays on the surface right where you can see it.
The 12" double-braided section sits right below the handle and gives you an alternative grip point on the rope. Some riders prefer the handle, some prefer the wider section — we built in both so you can ride however feels right.
HANGTIME LINE is designed to connect directly to the magnetic HANGTIME PORT built into the back of ONDO 2.0 and all future MISSION vests equipped with a HANGTIME PORT. If you have a vest without a HANGTIME PORT, you're not completely out of luck — the second buckle on the line gives you a bonus hang point for non-compatible jackets. It won't snap in magnetically, but it'll still get your vest off the floor and drying between sessions.
Take one of the buckles at either end of the line and wrap it around any rail, tower, bimini, or grab handle and clip it in place. No tools, no hardware, no permanent installation. Hang it vertically like a stringer or stretch it horizontally across the boat like a clothesline — either way works depending on your preferred setup.
Yes. Clip two or more HANGTIME Lines together using the buckles on either end and you've got additional length and hang points for a bigger crew. Simple as that.
Paddle Boards
How about right here. Stand-up paddleboarding, or SUP, is a water sport that involves standing on a long, buoyant board and propelling yourself through the water using a paddle. It can be done on calm bodies of water such as lakes, rivers, and bays, or in the ocean, depending on the skill level of the paddler. We have a great blog post: Your Guide to Stand-Up Paddle Boarding for you to read right now!
For beginners, an inflatable SUP board is highly recommended as it is easy to transport and store. When choosing a board, it is important to consider its weight, portability, and rigidity. MISSION's ARGO iSUP is a great starter board because it utilizes premium MSL+ construction technology, providing excellent stability, rigidity, and durability at an affordable price point. This board is perfect for those who want a highly stable board that is also lightweight.
MSL construction (Monocoque Structural Laminate) is a type of construction used in inflatable stand-up paddleboards (iSUPs) and other inflatable watercraft. It involves fusing the top and bottom layers of the board's PVC material together to create a single, solid piece. In MSL construction, the drop-stitch material that forms the internal structure of the board is sandwiched between two layers of PVC material, and then bonded to the outer shell using a heat-welding process. This creates a board that is lighter, stiffer, and more durable than traditional inflatable boards, which are typically constructed using glued layers of PVC material.
MISSION only uses MSL+ construction because we are committed to using the best methods for producing our products. MSL+ construction offers even greater strength and rigidity compared to standard MSL construction, making it ideal for producing high-quality inflatable watercraft.
MISSION only uses MSL+ construction because we are committed to using the best methods for producing our products. MSL+ construction offers even greater strength and rigidity compared to standard MSL construction, making it ideal for producing high-quality inflatable watercraft.
Almost certainly not. There are a lot of much cheaper ways to construct inflatables in this oh so large world. But they are heavy and the boards tend to banana out.
Yes, made with 1000D nylon (the same material used in our popular REEF inflatable water mats). MISSION iSUPs can be used on the lake, river, or ocean. However, it is important to understand that there is a big difference when it comes to ocean paddleboarding and flatwater paddleboarding.
The ocean can be extremely unpredictable, rough, and mysterious, while a lake is always predictable and usually keeps calm throughout the day. Educate yourself on the proper ways to enter ocean waters, paddling techniques, and ocean paddleboarding safety.
Also, like any towable or floatable water gear you use in saltwater or the ocean, make sure to rinse with fresh water thoroughly and dry after each use.
The ocean can be extremely unpredictable, rough, and mysterious, while a lake is always predictable and usually keeps calm throughout the day. Educate yourself on the proper ways to enter ocean waters, paddling techniques, and ocean paddleboarding safety.
Also, like any towable or floatable water gear you use in saltwater or the ocean, make sure to rinse with fresh water thoroughly and dry after each use.
MISSION iSUPs and REEF inflatable water mats are all designed with a high-end Halkey-Roberts valve. Often referred to as an “HR valve,” these one-way check valves are common among high-pressured inflatables. These valves make the inflation of high-pressure inflatables easy because it does not let the air out while pumping. When deflating, the valve can be opened to release air.
Halkey-Roberts valves have a pushpin (spring) inside the middle part of the valve. This pushpin has two positions:
Up Position – Inflation: You inflate MISSION iSUPs when the pushpin is in the up position. In the up position, air will not escape the valve, but the valve will let you pump air into it. Simply hook a pump into the valve and inflate your iSUP. Once you are finished inflating, simply disconnect the pump, and the air will not escape with the pushpin in the up position.
Down Position – Deflation: You deflate MISSION iSUPs when the pushpin is in the down position. In the down position, the valve will open entirely and let the air escape rapidly. This position should only be used for deflating your iSUPs, even though you can still pump air into it in this position. TIP: Even though air escapes quickly in the down position, having a pump with a deflation feature will suck out all of the air in no time. Check out all of our pump options here.
Halkey-Roberts valves have a pushpin (spring) inside the middle part of the valve. This pushpin has two positions:
Up Position – Inflation: You inflate MISSION iSUPs when the pushpin is in the up position. In the up position, air will not escape the valve, but the valve will let you pump air into it. Simply hook a pump into the valve and inflate your iSUP. Once you are finished inflating, simply disconnect the pump, and the air will not escape with the pushpin in the up position.
Down Position – Deflation: You deflate MISSION iSUPs when the pushpin is in the down position. In the down position, the valve will open entirely and let the air escape rapidly. This position should only be used for deflating your iSUPs, even though you can still pump air into it in this position. TIP: Even though air escapes quickly in the down position, having a pump with a deflation feature will suck out all of the air in no time. Check out all of our pump options here.
The hardware to secure the fin in place is a special ¾” long thumb screw that is regularly used for single fin surfboards or hard SUPs. The square plate (or the nut) that the screw goes into measures ½” x ½”. When you buy a MISSION iSUP we always include an extra set of hardware – just in case you lose one. If you find yourself needing more (say you lost both of them!?!) you can purchase a replacement set of hardware on our website.
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